Glowforge & xTool Cardstock Guide: Settings, Weights, and What Lasers Like

Last updated: May 2026 — by Ashlee Falco

Laser cutting feels like magic until you realize you're actually burning through material with a focused light beam, and that changes everything about cardstock selection. Cricuts score lines. Lasers vaporize them. That single difference means cardstock weights, material composition, and finish choices that work beautifully on a Cricut can actually be a problem — or even a fire hazard — on a laser.

I've spent hundreds of hours testing cardstock in both Glowforge and xTool machines, and I've learned which weights cut clean, which ones scorch, which finishes mask properly, and which ones will absolutely wreck your machine or your design. This guide gives you the exact weights, settings starting points, and material rules that prevent you from learning those lessons the expensive way.

The 30-second answer

  • Best cardstock for laser cutting: 80–110 lb smooth (65–90 gsm) for crisp cuts without edge char
  • Glitter laser-safe: Shed-free glitter 250 gsm works but requires masking and patience — use 30% power max
  • Specialty finishes: Mirror and holographic 230 gsm work well; pearl works but tests first
  • What to absolutely avoid: Anything below 80 lb (scorches instantly), coated finishes not rated for laser, vinyl-backed cardstock

How laser cutting differs from Cricut — and why it matters for material choice

A Cricut blade presses down and scores or cuts through material. Clean, controlled, precise. A laser focuses a beam that heats and vaporizes the material along a line. Different tools, completely different physics.

This means:

  • Cardstock below 80 lb is out. On a Cricut, 65 lb cardstock is fine. On a laser, it vaporizes into char around the cut line, leaving scorched edges and smoke. You don't want either
  • Finish matters more than weight. A glitter finish reflects laser light differently than smooth. The laser can't focus properly on the reflective surface, which means inconsistent cuts and potential flare-ups
  • Masking is your insurance. Applying painter's tape or masking film to cardstock before laser cutting prevents discoloration, reduces char, and protects the surface if there are any flare-ups
  • Speed and power are your dials. Unlike Cricut (which has presets for cardstock weight), laser cutting requires manual speed/power adjustment. Too slow = scorch. Too fast = incomplete cut

Cardstock weight sweet spots for laser cutting

80 lb smooth cardstock (65 gsm)

This is your minimum. Smooth solid-core 67 lb is in this range and cuts beautifully on both Glowforge and xTool. The weight is thick enough to cut cleanly without vaporizing, light enough that laser power doesn't create char rings.

Best for: Intricate designs, toppers, cards, detailed signage, anything where precision matters.

100–110 lb cardstock (90 gsm)

This is your sweet spot for maximum visual impact. Heavier cardstock cuts with crisp edges and looks premium. It handles a few passes if a cut isn't complete on the first run.

Best for: Statement pieces, toppers you want to photograph, designs that need to feel substantial.

Specialty finishes: 230 gsm and 250 gsm

Glitter 250 gsm and metallic/pearl 230 gsm work, but with caveats. They're heavier, which means they cut cleanly. But they also reflect heat and light, which means you need lower power settings and masking to prevent char.

Glitter on a laser: The glitter surface reflects the beam instead of vaporizing cleanly. Masking is non-negotiable. Apply painter's tape to the glitter side before cutting.

Mirror and holographic (230 gsm): These cut beautifully because they're smooth on the surface and solid beneath. No masking required, but test your settings first.

Glowforge vs. xTool: Settings and approaches

Glowforge

Glowforge machines have more variables (three models with different power levels). General starting points:

  • 80 lb smooth: 100% power, 140 speed (adjust based on your specific machine model). Do a test cut on cardstock scrap first
  • Specialty 230–250 gsm: 50–60% power, 90–100 speed, with masking
  • Critical: Your machine's actual power output varies. A Pro cuts differently than a Plus. Your air assist quality matters. Use the built-in test pattern to verify your settings before committing to full designs

xTool

xTool machines (xTool M1/M1 Ultra and others) have slightly different mechanics but similar logic:

  • 80 lb smooth: 15–18% power, 90 speed (xTool's "power" scale is different from Glowforge's). Again, test first
  • Specialty finishes: 8–12% power, 70–80 speed, with masking
  • Critical: xTool's power is measured differently than Glowforge. A "50% power" on xTool is not equivalent to 50% on Glowforge. Always calibrate on cardstock scraps

The universal rule for both machines

Start low, increase power until your cut is clean, then knock it down 10%. This prevents char and flare-ups. A second pass at lower power is better than a single pass at high power.

Masking strategy: when you need it and how to do it

You always need masking for: Glitter, holographic, mirror finishes, and any cardstock darker than black.

You don't need masking for: Smooth solid-core, white, cream, light colors (though it never hurts).

The masking process:

  1. Apply painter's tape or masking film to the top side of the cardstock before cutting (the side the laser will be hitting)
  2. Run your cut as normal
  3. Peel the masking off gently — it removes protective residue and exposes your finished cut

This single step prevents 90% of edge discoloration and scorch on specialty cardstock.

Smoke and edge cleanup

Laser cutting cardstock produces smoke. That's normal. What's not normal:

  • Heavy white smoke: Usually means power is too high or you're cutting too slowly. Increase speed, decrease power
  • Char (black residue) on cut edges: Power is too high. Knock it down 5–10% next pass
  • Flare-ups (small flames): Stop immediately. Anything that makes actual fire means your material is incompatible or your settings are dangerously high. Cardstock shouldn't burn — if it does, you've got a problem

Post-laser cleanup: Many cardstock pieces will have light char or residue around cut edges. You can often remove it with an eraser, gentle sanding, or even a damp cloth depending on severity. Test on scraps first.

Frequently asked questions

Can I laser-cut glitter cardstock without masking?

Technically yes, but you'll get scorch marks around every cut. The glitter surface reflects the laser, which heats the backing more than the glitter itself. Masking takes five minutes and prevents this. Just do it.

Why does my cardstock have white residue after laser cutting?

That's usually vaporized core material or ash from the cut edge. It happens on almost all cardstock. You can remove it by gently rubbing with an eraser or damp cloth. It's cosmetic — the cut itself is fine.

Can I laser-cut cardstock thinner than 80 lb?

You can, but it will char heavily and look terrible. Cardstock below 80 lb vaporizes when hit with laser power. It's not worth it. Use 80 lb minimum.

What's the difference between cutting and engraving cardstock on a laser?

Cutting vaporizes all the way through. Engraving vaporizes the surface only, creating a design without separating the piece. For toppers and dimensional designs, you want cutting. For details on flat pieces, you can use engraving. Both work on smooth 67 lb.

Can I use cardstock specialty finishes (metallic, pearl, holographic) on both Glowforge and xTool?

Yes, but you need to calibrate your settings per machine. Mirror and holographic 230 gsm both work. Pearl works but can sometimes scatter light. Test on a small piece before committing to your full design.

Why is my cut incomplete after one pass?

Power is too low or speed is too high. Increase power by 5%, decrease speed slightly, and try again. For cardstock, two passes at lower power is often cleaner than one pass at high power.

Can I do a "kiss cut" (partial cut) on cardstock with a laser?

It's tricky because lasers vaporize material — you can't really control a partial cut the way you can with a Cricut blade. You can get close by lowering power significantly (30–40%), but it's imprecise. If you need kiss cuts, a Cricut is your tool, not a laser.

How do I prevent char and scorching on dark cardstock?

Masking is your primary defense. Apply painter's tape to the top side before cutting. Lower your power (you're relying on masking to protect the material). Dark cardstock absorbs heat more readily, so be conservative with power settings.

Ready to start?

  1. Start with smooth 67 lb solid-core (80 lb range) as your testing material — it's forgiving and cheap for figuring out your machine's settings
  2. Create a test file with one cut line. Set power to 50% and speed to 100. Cut, check results, adjust
  3. Once you're cutting clean on smooth, test specialty finishes 230 gsm with masking and settings reduced to 30–40% power

Laser-cutting cardstock is precise, rewarding work. Get your material and settings right, and your designs will sing. Skip the testing phase, and you'll waste cardstock and time. Choose wisely. — Ashlee

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